Fuel Injector Loom Replacement on the Land Rover TD5 Engines

Hello and welcome to the Britpart workshop. I'm here in magnificent Shropshire. Shropshire, home to the Olympics, home to the industrial revolution, and home to the world's biggest supplier of Land Rover parts. And the MD of Britpart is Paul Myers. He's here with me. Paul, tell us, what's the most popular part that you sell? Well, for the last couple of years for most popular parts being the Discovery 3, Discovery 4, Range Rover Sport; air suspension compressor made by Hitachi. Right. Okay. And that's by value; what's the most popular part by number? I'd have to have a guess and say that it's the rivet that holds on a wheel arch on a defender, we saw an awful lot of those. Brilliant, that shows the kind of breadth of parts you sell anyway. And then here's another one. What is this, Paul? What have we got in front of us? Okay. This is the injector wiring harness for a Td5 diesel engine which was fitted to Defenders and a Discovery 2's. Right. And why does this go wrong? It's quite a unique design on this engine, being a Firestone engine isn't quite unusual to start with for a diesel, but we inject a wiring loom actually runs within the cylinder head. Oh, right. So this is actually bathed in oil all its life. Okay. And unfortunately, through this connection here, we get sippage of oil into the plug, which then actually tracks all the way down the wiring into the ECU. Right. Okay. Then ECU full of oil; not good. No, not good at all. So the replacement of the the injector harness is quite a popular job. I bet it is. So you sell quite a few of these I'd imagine. Sell a lot of these, yes. OE spec is it? Absolutely OE spec, this is exactly the same as the car has made with when it was new. Okay. And you'd imagine that somebody would have to do this at least once in the life of their Td5. Absolutely. We haven't been able to work out whether it's a mileage or even a time factor, but they seem to go quite frequently, yes. Okay. Well, let's go over to the vehicle now and see if Steve and Martin are ready. They're gonna replace this, fit it, so that you can do it at home. Right. So the first job that we need to do is to remove the plastic engine cover. That's held in place with three 13-mil screws. We've already got two out, so when the final one is undone, we can lift the cover off, and now you can see the top of the rocker cover here. This has one breather pipe connected with a spring clip which we need to release. The hose can then be removed from the rocker cover. The rocker cover's held down with a series of 8-mil headed just short bolts that pass through collars, through the rocker cover, and attach it to the cylinder head. So we've loosened all of the rocker cover bolts, we're just removing the last few now, because obviously there's the rocker shaft and the injectors underneath the engine cover. Steve's got his natural gloves on to protect his hands from the oil. He's just going to go ahead and lift the rocker cover off, it's a bit fiddly; there's a plastic cover at the back which can get in the labor bit perseverance and that will come off. You need to be careful not to lose the the little top hats that hold the rubber grommets through the rocker cover because if you turn the cover over it, they often fall out. With that out of the way, you can see the top of the engine, rocker shaft, and that's the injector loom that runs down the left-hand side of the engine as you look at it. There's an electrical connector, just underneath the front corner, which Steve's gonna unplug and then we can get to unplugging the injector harness from the injectors. The next step is to unplug all of the connectors from the top of the injectors. They're held on just with small metal spring clips. So you push them in, give them a little wiggle, and that will come off the top of the injector. Once all of those disconnected, the O-rings can be released from the socket in the head and the harness will come off. The new harness can be slotted down into the top of the cylinder head, and then the plugs can be attached to the top of the injectors. It's important that the plastic channel the wires run through is located properly in the top of the cylinder head, otherwise it can be damaged by the cam cover when that goes back on. You'll also notice there's a half moon shape in the back of this behind the rocker shaft. It's really important when you refit the cam cover to make sure that the part of the gasket sits in there properly and isn't sort of deformed when it goes in, otherwise it will leak out of the back of the cam cover. It's important to make sure that all the top hats are sat properly through the cam cover before it's lifted back into place. Steve's just gonna clean up the mating face of the top of the head, where the rocker cover gasket seals to make sure that when the rocking cover goes back on with a new seal, that it is a clean and it's gonna prevent any debris being sandwiched between the two. Okay, so now that we're happy that these mating faces on the cylinder head and the rocket cover are clean, Steve's able to lift the cover back onto the top of the engine. Just need to make sure that plastic cover stays clear as he lowers it down. And all the top hats stay in the right place. It's a bit fiddly to line up. As you can see. There we go. Let's just slow it down. Sat nice and flat all the way along, and as with any mating component, any sealing component, it's very important that all the bolts are started before tightened down fully, and here's Fuzz to explain how that's done Tightening components down to a flat surface needs a certain amount of thought. If you try and tighten a component down at extreme ends. So say here and here, what will happen is, as you tighten it down you may get a slight bridging effect like this; essentially this end and this end will be down; whereas the center bit here will be up. This piece of card exaggerated, but that's what it effectively would be like. Now, even just a slight bit of bridging is enough to make a component leak. Now to start with one bolt. That would be one, that would be two, that would be my third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, 10th, leaving 11, 12, 13, and 14. Beautifully flat, and leak-free. Now this can be applied to all kinds of components, including cylinder heads. It's the same thing. If you don't know the sequence, start in the middle of the component and work your way out and along until you get to the outer ends, tighten those down, and you're done. Works every time. So this is the engine wiring loom plug which connects onto the bottom of the injector harness. It's really important to make sure that this is free of any oil that has made it through the injector harness, otherwise you could still suffer the symptoms of in-boiling grease. So give it a blast out with some brake cleaner before you refit it. We're just finishing tightening up the rocker cover bolts now, and then the final job is to reconnect the breather hose and connect the new wiring harness. And the plug will make a positive clicking noise when you've got it on all the way. And the final job to do is to start and run the engine, check for any leaks from the rocker cover gasket, and then the plastic cover can go back on and you can check out all our other Britpart workshop videos online.