Edd China’s Basic Classic Car Health Checks: Paperwork and Exterior Checks

For a few years now, any car older than 1960 is no longer required to have an MOT, but they still must be roadworthy by law. And it seems that in a few years time all historic cars are going to be exempt from MOTs. And whether you think that's a good idea or not, it does rather put the onus on us, the owners, to ensure our cars are in tip-top condition and completely roadworthy. Now doing a classic car health check at home is well within the capability of most owners. And thanks to Heritage Classic Car Insurance I'm able to bring you a whole series of top tips on exactly how to do that. Well, hello, Mark. Hi, ya. Well, this is Mark Wilkinson, the managing director of Heritage Insurance. Well, thank you very much doing this. No problem. We really wanted to do something for classic car owners that don't need an MOT but wanted to do the checks at home, but also those that do need an MOT and want to stay safe and save time and money before taking the car in. Well, the cool thing about these checks, it doesn't matter what age your car is. Indeed, and this is all about staying safe and secure on the road. He's not wrong. So this is my guide to doing your classic car health check. Okay, so the DVSA, or Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency, reckon that 50% of all MOT failures are just down to a lack of very simple maintenance. So with a few hours work and reference to their free manual and inspection checklist, both available on their website, you could end up with a year's MOT, no advisory, and more importantly, real peace of mind. There are a number of reasons why a tester may refuse to MOT your classic vehicle. Number one, you can't prove the age of the vehicle. Number two, its bottom is so caked in crud it can't be seen. Number three, it's so broken it can't be driven. Number four, there's something big and insecure inside. Number five, you don't have the means to pay up front if required. Number six, it creates too much smoke. Number seven, a door, a panel, or a flap can't be opened to give access. Number eight, it has sharp edges, and it would be injurious to go near it. Number nine, the vehicle's ID is unreadable, missing, or even worse dodgy. Okay, well this is what you're going to need. First of all, it's very handy to have a copy of the DVSA MOT testers handbook. Very, very handy stuff. Also a printout of the inspection checklist would be good, especially with a working pen. Also a nice, bright torch so you can look into those dark crevices. And a tire depth gauge. Also some very simple, basic tools. And a long pry bar. And then some fluids for topping up just in case. Also if you haven't got the use of a ramp, well then a trolley jack and some actual stands will be vital. But also very, very important is to have a willing assistant. Not necessarily Danny Hopkins from Practical Classics, but it is quite useful. Should we crack on? Yes. Right, let's start with the bodywork and look at the car as a whole. And then start looking out for things like wiring or cabling that may be dangling down. Also sharp bits of bodywork, like this a little bit just here. Then the next thing to think about are things like mirrors, make sure that they're all present and are very clear. And also then start looking for things like loose bits of trim, making sure that nothing's going to sort of fall off during the test or on your way there or back. And then make your way to the rear of the car again, and make sure that the boot actually opens and closes properly. And when it locks it be locked securely. All good. Fantastic. Then do the same kind of test on the doors. Now with here is another opportunity to look for some rust, that's exactly what the MOT test is gonna be doing. Also make sure that the doors actually open and close nice and smoothly, no gronching going on there. And once all that's done, we then start to do that really big rust test. So Danny, do your business. Now when it comes to rust we're looking from anything from holes in panels, to a bit of bubbling, or even kind of rusty edges. Anything looks a bit dodgy, what we're going to do is apply a bit of pressure with either a thumb or a finger to make sure that it isn't that bad or doesn't need repair. Or you can use one of these, a corrosion assessment tool. This is actually a toffee hammer that an MOT tester will use. Now, if you find any dodgy corrosion at all, give it a good tap, and you can give it bit of a poke with the other end. Now if it seems maybe a little bit scary, a little bit unfair, but actually this is exactly what the MOT tester is going to do so you should do it yourself first, because, obviously, you want to make sure you've got rid of any corrosion whatsoever. Also while we're under here, get a little torch out, and have a little look for things like oil leaks, because, of course, this is a great time to have a look and see if there's something that going to be quite terminal further down the line. In fact, you can have a look for all kinds of stuff while you're under here to make sure everything's in tip-top condition. Well, that's enough for the underside for now. The next thing I want to do is a few more external checks. So Danny, please go down. So the next thing we're going to check is the suspension, or more specifically, the shock absorbers. So we're gonna go for the bounce test, or one hard push. Assuming the wing stays on, we're looking for one and a half bounces. If it carries on bouncing then definitely your shock needs to be changed. If you're even slightly worried about it, you can have a look underneath and check for any seepage. Now do this all around the car. That's all good too. And while you're in this area it's a good time to check the integrity of the filler cap. Wanna make sure that everything is in good order, including the gaskets. Well, that pretty much concludes the external, general checks of the car. Next up, we're gonna be looking at lights, tires, under the bonnet, and also a more detailed look under the car. See you soon.