Replacing the Gearbox Oil Filter Sump the Fast Way on a Discovery 3, 4, and Range Rover Sport with the Britpart Upgrade

Hello and welcome to the Brit Part Workshop. I'm here in shop shere, with Paul Myers, Britt part MD. Paul, why have you got a workshop? We use a workshop purely to do research and development work on our own product. We have a fleet of vehicles ourselves. We don't use customers' cars. We're testing the parts here, and it's really a final check before we actually approve of parts for sales. So we will test the parts for hardness of the parts and the steel and the rubber before we pass them through to here. Install em on the car, do a certain amount of mileage on the car before we actually approve it for, for sale. Those we do real world checks. Absolutely. Yes. Great. That makes a lot of sense and case in point here, what we were lookin at. Okay. We have two different versions of a six speed. A ZF gearbox oil summit and filter. This is how the car comes out of the factory, with this plastic, sump pan. Which has got an integrated filter with this, spout on it. Yeah. This is fantastic, but the problem we find is that, to change your filter on this takes two or three hours. Yeah. Because this will not clear the cross-member, as you taking the filter out. Okay. So you actually have to take the engine off him, bounce, lift the engine to pull this out. You're kidding. Right? That's, that doesn't make sense. Is it? So we've got a solution here, which uses a metal sump pan and a separate filter. Okay. So literally the filter pushes in, and the sump pan goes back on. And there's no interference with the cross-member. So two or three hours. How long? 20 minutes. Well, that's gotta be better. Isn't it? Absolutely. And you've got some oil here as well. So what's the, what's the role of that? Okay. ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid. Up until the six speed gearboxes, was pretty much a standard fluid across all the range. Yeah. Now you have six speed gearbox, eight speed gearbox. And it's very important you get the right oil in the right gearbox. So two different oils for two different boxes. Correct. Okay. Right. So you've got to make sure you've got the right one or does this come and with the kit? We do a whole kit with oil, right quantity of oil and the filter, the bolts and everything in a kit. Okay. Now, I know Land Rover specify that these gearboxes are sealed for life, but you think that sort of open to interpretation? Yes. With a gearbox manufacturers at F, we would recommend that the gearbox is serviced at 60,000 miles. Okay. And how would you, be able to tell if you've got an issue coming with your, your auto box? What sort of things would you look out for? Firstly the first signs would be, slowing down in a change of a gearbox? Yep. Possibly a bit of slip as you're accelerating hard, and certainly some juddering in at low speed. Okay. Right. Well look, we're going to go over to the workshop now. To see if Martin and Steve can get on with replacing the old type of pan with the Brit part replacement. Let's see how they get on. Right. So we've got the Discovery Four up on the ramp now. This vehicle was fitted with an OEM spec plastic sump with the tool tube as you saw Paul and Danny talking about earlier. If we were taking that off and replacing it with another OEM sump, there would be a lot more work involved. For instance, this gearbox cross-member would have to be completely unbolted. You'd have to unbolt the right-hand side engine Mount and Jack the engine and gearbox up by about two inches for it to clear. So it's, it's really, you know, quite a painstaking job. And certainly not something you would try at home. Obviously the Brit part kit is a metal pan sump with the separate filter. So it's much, much easier to install. To get to this point, we've removed the plastic and the metal under trays. We've released the drain bung on the plastic sump, and let as much oil out as possible. We've then undone the long bolt, which secures the transfer box to the gearbox cross member. And we've just got a Jack under there to raise it up a little bit, just to give a little bit of extra access to the T 40 screws. Which hold the sump to the bottom of gearbox. Some of those are a little bit tricky to get at. So you might want to use a series of extensions and other bits and pieces like that just to help the job along. Once you've undone those, the plastic sump will drop down far enough feed to see the plastic tube, which goes up into the gearbox. At that point, you'll need to get a Hacksaw blade and carefully cut through the tube, to allow the sump pan to drop down further. What normally happens is the tube will drop into the top of the sump, which isn't a problem. From there, all we need to do is wiggle the sump pan about a bit and eventually it will come out from between the two cross-members and you can lower it down. Once the old sump pan's off. It's a good idea to use a tap, to clean out all of the threaded holes in the bottom of the gearbox. And here's Fuzz to explain why. When you've removed components from a car, you want to ensure that when you're refitting everything. That all of the components are spotlessly clean. Now that includes the threads as well, cos it's vitally important when tightening down, various components. And also, we want to make sure that we don't get any dirt inside a delicate systems such as things like automatic gearboxes and the like. So what we do, is we ensure that we chase all of the threads that are tapped into this component. Now, in order to do this, we select the correct size tap, for the thread. So that goes in there, nice and easily like that. And we use tap stock. Let's turn that in there. There we go. So that's held perfectly. Now, we also want to prevent swarf and debris getting inside here. So what we can do is make a template of the inside of here and then just tape it on using a bit of masking tape down like that. Or, instead of using that. We can get away with using a bit of grease, smear it around where you're going to be chasing the threads. And that means that any swarf that you pull out, will get caught on the grease rather than dropping inside the component. You can then just wipe it away. So, here we are. I've got my tap. I can now just start it into the thread. There we go, forward some back, a little touch. By going forwards and then back a little touch. All that does is any debris that's caught, will be pushed into these flutes that run up and down the tap. And then we could safely remove all the debris. So there we go. That's feeling nice and free now, Right. Okay. Take the tap out. You can see little bits of debris caught down the sides there. Reverse capture all of those. And of course, wipe your grease away. Get a fresh new bolt, check it in the thread. And yeah, that's perfectly smooth and easily manipulable just by fingers. That's great. That's most important because if we've got any debris caught in the threads here that means there's going to be resistance. And that resistance, if we're torquing this bolt up will give us an inaccurate torque figure. And that, is what we want to avoid. There we go, chasing your threads. Vitally important. Right? So we've cleaned off the bottom of the gearbox and we've chased all the threads. At this point, the new filter can be pushed up into place in the bottom of the valve body. And then the steel sump can be fitted over the top. Once that's in position, all of the T40s torque screws can be started, gradually wound in and torque to spec. Once this is complete, and you're happy that the gearbox sump is going to seal properly. You can refill with the correct specification oil, and bleed the system by cycling through the gears. Once a new sumps in place. All that's left to do, is refill the gearbox. And it's good to bear in mind that the oil pump will suck up the fluid faster than you can put it in. So it's a good idea to top up the level run the engine for a few seconds, top up the level again. Just keep repeating the process until a steady beat of fluid runs from the filler hole. And you know the level is correct. Then it's just a case of refitting the under trays, having a cleanup and the job's complete for more handy hints and tips on how to work on your Land Rover. Check out the rest of the Brit Part Workshop, video series.